Characteristics of the metal alloy:

The LIVE NINE rearend is diecast from an alloy which melts at a very low temperature. This metal alloy is called variously, Lo-Temp, Cerro-bend, and others. It's melting point is around 200 degrees Fahrenheit, 95 degrees Celsius. It WILL melt in hot water! It cannot be soldered successfully using ordinary soldering methods. Do not attempt to solder it. Do not place it in the oven to bake on a finish, it will melt.

It can be filed, sanded, and polished with steel wool, and will accept all types of paint.

It is advisable to wash your hands after sanding, filing or polishing this metal alloy.

TOMY gearset preparation:

The TOMY ring gear is prepared by cutting off the shoulder on the backside of the ring gear. This is to allow the gear set to fit into the LIVE NINE castings. This can be accomplished with either a razor saw or jeweler's saw.

The shoulder on the other end should remain intack, as it holds the pinion shaft from jumping out of position, and ensures constant mesh of ring and pinion gears. The pinion gear is removed from the HO shaft by pulling it off, if it is already on a motor, otherwise it can be used as is. The 1/16" steel pinion shaft is put into a Dremel tool and the diameter of the shaft is turned down with a fine mill file. Only an 1/8" on the end needs to be reduced in diameter until it fits snuggly into the pinion gear hole. This allows retention of the "nub" on the end of the pinion gear. This "nub" holds the pinion gear in-mesh with the ring gear by riding in the slot between the ring and outer shoulder.

Axles and tubes:

The Axles slip over the TOMY steel axles after the shoulder on the back of the ring has been removed. The axles slide directly up to the plastic gear center piece on both sides. They can be glued into position when final assembly is undertaken. Dispense a small drop of CA onto a disposable piece of wax paper or margarine container lid. Dip the end of the TOMY shaft into the drop of CA. Slide the axle on quickly and completely, it will NOT move once the glue has set. Get it into the correct position the first time.

An important word about using CA

CA also know as ACC, ZAP, HOT STUFF and others, is a marvelous adhesive, it sets fast, can be used on a lot of different materials and is strong, however it is not with out its drawbacks!

First ... it bonds skin! Keep it off your fingers, keep it out of you eyes keep it off your clothes. If you have no experience with this glue seek adult supervision!

Thin CA creeps into cracks and crevices. It "wicks" into places you never expect. Glueing steel to brass with CA forms an intensly powerful bond, irreversible. If you glue your axles to your axle tube by mistake you will not be able to get them apart. You will need to make new parts. I do not recommend using CA to assemble the case halves nor to mount the axle tubes into the case. It is just too unpredictable as to where its going to end up going. It can be "chipped" off with a hobby knife in some instances, but this is not always possible.

I prefer to use 5 minute epoxy to glue the axles into the wheels, the axle tubes into the cases, and to assemble the LIVE NINE front and rear case halves. Even with this it is adviseable to use petroleum Jelly (Vaseline) to prevent glue from creeping into the working parts. Simple apply a small amount of petroleum jelly to form a sort of barrier in the areas you want to be sure the glue will not go.

I have "destroyed" probably a half a dozen of these TOMY gearset assemblies by careless application of CA. This gets expensive at $5 a piece. Avoid this by using the petroleum jelly and epoxy technique.

The axle tubes position the ring gear by butting up against the ring gear on both sides. This prevents the axle from working left or right while in operation. Therefore, the inward ends of the axle tubes should be "milled" smooth and square by sanding them on a piece of 400 wet-or-dry on you work surface. Hold the part perpendicular to the work surface and sand it by moving it around a small circular motion.

Lubrication:

To provide additional lubrication and long life and free running of the axles in their tubes, you may , if you want to, reduce the diameter of the axles in the middle sections of their length. This can be done by spinning them in the Dremel motor tool and pressing a piece of 400 grit wet-or-dry against them as they spin. This should only be done at the midpoints of the axles and should not be applied to the inner or outer ends of the axle which are the bearing surfaces. This will supply a sort of reservoir for oil and provide continuous lubrication to the assembled rearend.

Always, always, always wear your safety glasses when using a motor tool!!!

Have Fun!!!